Eating in Edinburgh: The Places That Actually Deliver
It's easy to get Edinburgh wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning, when I wandered into a touristy pub on Royal Mile and ordered a "traditional Scottish breakfast" that turned out to be a plate of overcooked bacon and lukewarm porridge. The locals just laughed as I tried to salvage it with a spoonful of ketchup. Turns out, real Scottish breakfasts—served with black pudding, haggis, and a side of tattie scone—are a whole different beast, and they're not found in the places that cater to cruise ship crowds. My real culinary awakening came on a rainy Tuesday afternoon, when I ducked into a tiny spot called The Witchery by the Castle. It’s tucked away on the narrow, cobbled street of Castle Street, just a stone’s throw from the castle walls. I ordered the haggis neeps and tatties, and it was unlike anything I’d ever tasted—creamy, savory, and perfectly balanced with the earthy turnips and mashed potatoes. The price? £18.50 for a hearty portion that left ...